ABS Nationals Live Stream!!!

Update:
Due to rolling iso format, qualifiers wont be online.  However, Saturday should be up and running!  This is a very simple live feed here do not be expecting anything fancy :p.  I will do my best to set up the camera so that the whole wall will be visible.  Thanks for tuning in everyone, Enjoy!

Alex J

ABS Nationals 2012 Livestream!

Hey Everyone I know USA Climbing said no LiveStream, However I will be posting a Ustream Live Feed of Qualifiers!!!      Will most likely start around Noon Denver time and go throughout the duration about 6pm.   Will keep ya updated!! :DD

Schedule:  http://www.absnationals.org/08/details/index.htm

Big Ups Power Bar!

Thanks Power Bar for Hooking it up!!

170+ New Rock Candy Holds!!!!!

Website

PowerBar!!!!

Is very excited to add PowerBar to the list of sponsors!!   Go buy some of their amazing products if you are not already eating them right now ;)  Power Bar

Jansport Gear Review

I have been using Jansport gear as a tote for my things to and from the gym, to the crag and for trips.  When I used to think of Jansport, I used to think of only school backpacks, however they actually have a huge line of Outdoor packs as well.  Web Link
Let me just take a moment to give you some feedback on several of the bags that I am using and love.
First on the list is the Snoqualmie, the perfect all around bag.
Uses:
- Couple day trip up to several months
- 5 Full sized compartments

When I first received the bag in preparation for my month long europe trip, my first thoughts were this is kinda tiny.  However, after several minutes of packing I realized that I was able to stuff about 30 shirts, 3 pants, 2 shorts, 2 sweatshirts, toiletries all into the main compartment.  (As well as some clothes + rope bag I picked up along the way) Whats nice about this pack is that when the main compartment is stuffed it does not intrude in your side compartments like some bags do.  I was then able to fit about 10 quickdraws into the first big side compartment and my socks and what have you in the smaller front pouch.  I still had another big side compartment and rear pouch left with which I filled with extra stuff.  What I am saying is you can fit a lot of stuff into this bag.  Consider this bag if you are in the market for a new travel bag, you wont regret it.

Dark Horse Championships

More detailed write up later,  + LT11 Highlight Video when it comes out, should be awesome!

2012 Dark Horse Series Championship Highlights from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.








Results: 

Men:

1. Daniel Woods - 46

2.Robby D - 43

3. Carlo - 42

4. Alex D Johnson (me) - 40

5.  Andy Lamb - 36

6.  Sebastian Lazure - 35
7.  Grady Bagwell - 32
8.  Steven Meinhold - 26

Women:

1.   Francesca Metcalf - 57

2.  Angie Payne - 57

3.  Kasia - 48

4.  Katie Lamb - 45

5.  Nadia Vorotnicova 4?
6.  Isabelle Faus - 43

7.  Amy Cockerham - 34
8.  Annalisa Flynne - 32

Training

I usually, have not been very big into training as I have found for me the best way to improve on my climbing is to just climb climb. However, being a tall climber like myself I have noticed especially in competitions that if there is any sort of one arm pull-up type move involved within the climb,  it kills me as I must pull up quite a long ways haha.   The DBC recently bought some weights and a bench press set.  I decided to give it a go (beginning of december), and I have definitely noticed a change in my climbing, I am able to lock off on much smaller holds better and longer than before.  Along with that my body feels more balanced, developing muscles that are not worked as much while climbing.

Here is a short example of a typical after climbing workout:

Bench-press

Lift into Military Press or just Standing Military Press

Arm Curl Lifts

Weighted Lock-Offs 

I think thats all, if not I will add it in later.

(Usually do 3 sets)

In addition, to the workout listed above I have been doing the Mens Health Spartacus Workout (Click for App Store  Link, free version also available).  This is a very intense fast paced all body workout, depending on weight amount etc.  I have been doing this workout for about 2 weeks now, start day #8 on Wed.  I also highly recommend this regimen as well and have personally noticed a benefit from it.  A plus to this one is only free weights needed and it can be done with no weights as well if desired.

I would love to know what you all think about these workouts if decide to do them and what the results are!

Clear Creek Canyon Primo Wall

Decided to go out to Primo Wall a couple weeks back (Jan 21st) with some mates from the gym (DBC): Allen Cheney, David Mullins and Mark Rohr.  First climb on my list to send was "Shine 14a" which I had tried a few times before in colder weather but just kept freezing off right after the crux, darn it haha.  The weather was very nice that day and go figure I forgot the beta.  After, I figured out the moves again, I sent next go.  Since I had finished up my project, I decided to give it a go at the 13's.

The first climb was Public Solitude (13b).  A very interesting climb, easy slab climbing into a tricky flat wall, sloper pinch, section with smear feet that then leads into some crimpy moves to quite a cool dihedral move to anchors.

After that, went right over to the Nomad Cave and made quick work of Express Yourself (13c).  I Ended up getting it 2nd go as I chuffed on a two finger precision move right at the start. Anyways, highly recommend this climb, it did not feel that hard but maybe just suited my style,  I dont know.  

Last on the list was River Run (13b), 5.9 climbing, that then leads into a short powerful v9 with some big moves.

Oh yes, I also climbed Crying Flyboys (13a),  a Mazy Mai style climb for those that are familier with that classic Red River Gorge climb.

Here are some pics of me on Crying Flyboys (13a)  Shot by David Mullins

Allen Cheney Next 2