Wednesday, May 18, 2011

1st Ever Dominion River Rock Bouldering Bash!!


This year I had the opportunity of competing in a bouldering comp unlike anything else done before.  The magnificent wall was built and designed by Brent Quesenberry, whom did a great job of really creating the ultimate viewer experience for someone who has never seen a bouldering competition, along with making it super fun to climb on.


The wall


As you can see it is just a metal structure with huge volumes hanging down that we climbed between to seek  the prize of topping the huge 30 beast out.  
Qualifiers, I really was just getting used to the wall as I sent problem #1 but not as smoothly as I would have liked due to the different style of climbing.  Qualifier #2 was pretty tough and I was pretty pumped from problem #1 as we only had 5 minutes per problem.  I made it far enough though to qualify me to semi-finals.  Technically, this was a boulder competition but felt more like a route competition as each problem had 20+ moves.  This led to exciting, showy big move climbing. 
Semi-Finals 

Semi-Finals
Photo - Travis Wills







I was prepped and ready to crush.  Qualifiers were over and I had a good feel of the wall.  Our semi-finals route was one of the coolest problems I have been on.  It had cool movement to a strong one arm lock off move to some shoulder moves on pinches, 
Shoulder Moves
Photo - Travis Wills
which then led to my favorite move of the comp "Bat-hang"!!!! and then a huge two handed dyno to finishing pinches. 
Psyched before the Bat-Hang
Photo - Travis Wills
Bat-Hang
Photo - Travis Wills
Coming out of the Bat-Hang
Photo - Travis Wills
 During route preview I immediately scoped the bat-hang out and could not wait to do it.  Oddly enough I was the only person to do the move the quote un quote proper way haha.  Go figure.  I was the first of two to send the problem, Zach Lerner being the 2nd.  
Dyno!
Photo - Travis Wills
Looking at the Crowd
Photo - Travis Wills
Victory!!!
Photo - Travis Wills
Finals
Finals were supposed to follow semi-finals later on that night, however we were forced to delay them till the next day due to a sudden thunder storm that brought everything to a halt.  Only one problem lay in front of me on finals day.  During preview time I knew that I could send all I had to do was get past this one dyno move right near the end in which one could easily fly off the hold.  I easily made my way to the move through some solid feet first climbing action.  To my dismay I did not stick the sideways dyno first go, with only 5 minutes per climb I rested for a few seconds before hopping on again to give it my final burn.  Again I easily cruised to the move seconds before I was about to go for the move my feet cut which was actually better because it was better for me because I found out that I could just campus the dyno.  After sticking the campus I climbed up on the last move, looking at the last move which was a doozy I simply had no more gas left.  In the end I tied for 3rd but ended up taking 5th place due to falls.  
All in all I had an amazing time at the competition and cannot wait till next year in which I know will be even better!!


Highlight Video

Canadian Nationals!

       So this year I decided to head on up to Canadian Nationals to get some more comp experience and to see how they did things up there.  It was held at Climber's Rock Gym, they did a real nice job with everything too.  The first day was Qualifiers, in which we had 5 problems.  5 minutes on 5 off.  Problem #1 was a short crimpy flat wall problem.  I flashed it quickly allowing me ample time to rest before problem #2 which was probably the hardest climb of the day.  Problem #2 was a pure tension problem on not very good slopey holds.   Thankfully, I this did not stop me from cruising right up the problem.  Problem #3 I ended up sending second go.  Problem #4 had this interesting sideways dyno in it that for some reason I could just not stick (go figure)  haha Finally, after like 6 tries I connected with hold and finished it up easily.  Problem #5 was pretty chill and went down first try as well.
Finals
       For finals we had four problems.
Problem #1

Problem #2
Had a sweet start to it as you started facing the crowd and finished up on some rather enjoyable campusy moves.
Problem #3

Problem #4