Wednesday, February 16, 2011

2011 ABS Nationals Highlight Video!!

You can check out the highlights from the Championships here http://jonglassberg.lt11.com/2011/02/15/2011-abs-nationals/

2011 ABS NATIONAL CHAMPION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I was pretty bummed because without that third bonus hold I knew I probably wasn’t going to make finals.  I then get a text from my buddy and fellow 5.10 athlete Josh Levin who crushed in the comp by the way, that I had made it!?!  At first I thought he was just messing with me, so I text him back, “Are you serious??”.  He then calls me and confirms that I did indeed make into Finals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I just went crazy, running all around Spicy Pickle, the restaurant that I was eating at, not being able to contain my excitement!!! Haha.  I then went back to my hotel and took a very nice nap before heading over to the wall for finals.  They ran finals in a world cup format style.  In the world cup format style; they bring out the competitors one by one and introduce them to the crowd.  Then both the male and female preview their 1st problem, climb it and so on for #2 and #3.  As I was the last to make finals, I was out first to climb. 
Finals 1 (Bonus)
The first problem was not your usual problem, it started with a goofy but fun mantle to friction paper in the shape of two hands, and then you fell into a pocket and threw out to a jug.  In order to get to the next hold I a figure 4 came in handy.  This was the first time that I had ever utilized a figure 4 so my first few attempts at reaching the next hold were rather sloppy. Lol After several attempts I ended up sticking the bonus hold, but falling shortly after in attempting to reach the next hold.  I gave it a few more burns and managed to touch the second to last hold.  It was cool being able to go 1st out on each of the problems, I felt it was a lot less stressful because you did not have to sit in the chair and wonder how everyone else had done.  I was not stressed though for Finals because I did not have any expectations, I just too busy having too much fun; just happy to be in finals.  No one managed to send problem #1 for the men, se we all entered problem #2 ready to take revenge and SEND!!

Finals 2 (Send)
As soon as we turned around to preview the problem and I saw how the problem was, I knew this one was going to be fun.  It suited my style perfectly.  First attempt I just barely missed a key hold.  Second time around I knew what had to be done, turned it on and Sent!!  To my surprise problem #2 gave the others some trouble.  The last move was rather unforgiving and spit off several of the climbers on the first attempts to the top. 

            Finals 3 (Bonus)
            Going into problem #3, I knew if I wanted, any chances of winning I was going to have at least get the bonus hold on my first try and or send the problem.  I had a really good burn on the problem, just barely missing the finish hold after a rather large dyno that had skipped the last half of the problem.  I had some good goes after this one, but this by far was my best attempt. 

            In the end, I ended up finishing in a very impressive 2nd place next to the very talented Sean Mcoll from Canada.  I cannot describe to you how ecstatic I was when I had found out that I had placed 2nd in the 2011 Open ABS Nationals, earning me the title “2011 ABS NATIONAL CHAMPION.”  I still cannot believe it! Haha
            Next up is Youth ABS Nationals (Feb, 18-20).  Then Canadian Nationals, World Cup in Canada, Vail and Arco Finals which is held in Italy this year!  2011 is going to be one fun year cannot wait! J



Special thanks to all of my sponsors who have helped me throughout the years: Rock Candy Holds, Organic and Five Ten, and a very special thank you to my family and MOM!!!




Tuesday, February 15, 2011

2011 ABS Nationals Semi-Finals!!!


Really my only goal going into semi-finals was to make it to the final round, to be honest I didn’t care how I did (obviously I wanted to my best) but in reality just making it to the finals was good enough will all of the top competitors in the running such as D-Woods, Sean Mcoll, Magnus and others.  This time we only had 3 problems unlike the 6 for qualifiers.  It was very important that I flash every problem and or get the bonus hold 1st try if I wanted to get into finals later on that night. 
Semi-Finals 1 (Flash)
Problem 1 was put on the slab portion of the wall.  I had to think a second about how I was going to start the problem as the right hand was not very good and you had to do a slight dyno out right to thankfully what was a decent hold.  I did each move on this problem with the ut most care, as I knew flashing the first problem was very important in me advancing to the finals.  To my relief I flashed the problem setting me up nicely for the other 2 problems to come. 

Semi-Finals 2 (Bonus)
            I really enjoyed problem number 2 as the holds were friendly and the moves my style.  I ended up sticking the bonus hold on my 2nd attempt, which I was very pleased with.  Sadly I was not able to finish the problem but I was happy with my performance and just glad I got the bonus hold. 

Semi-Finals 3
            This problem gave me some trouble; it started on two not so good slopers.  My first attempt I slid right off the holds onto my back lol.  I quickly got up before too many people saw haha.  Finally, I got my hands and feet right and was able to stick the next few moves.  I did not have the one arm strength to do the intended beta, so I tried a mono match to set myself up with the other hand for the next move.  It worked but I slipped going to the bonus hold. 

I knew that without the bonus on problem three it was going to be close as to whether or not I sneaked into finals.  

2011 ABS Nationals Qualifiers!!!


            I was really excited this year for the 2011 ABS Nationals because unlike every other year, this year it was going to be held inside of a warehouse with optimal seating and a BRAND NEW wall!!!  Unfortunately, I had not yet seen the wall so I did not know what to expect.  Let me tell you though they did an AWESOME job on the wall once I finally saw it!!
Thankfully, for qualifiers again this year we had six problems with four minutes climbing time and four-minute rest.  I was very excited that we had six problems again this year.  Because the competition was held inside of a warehouse, we had the option to choose where we wanted to warm up.  I chose to go to the spot as I feel it is the best bouldering gym around.  I was set to climb at 3:52 and let me tell you the time could not come quick enough!  I could not wait to finally get on the wall and climb.
            Qualifier 1 (Flash)
Problem one went down rather easily, I felt it was a very nicely set problem to get everyone warmed up for the other 5 to come.

            Qualifier 2 (Flash)
I actually, like when I see slab problems at comps because it mixes it up and they are rather nice because you don’t get crazy pumped on them.  I over gripped slightly on this problem just because I wanted be ready in case a foot slipped on me lol.  Thankfully, my feet stayed solid and I was able to flash the second problem. 

            Qualifier 3 (Flash)
I had a great time on this problem, big moves to solid pinches.  For some reason my feet did not want to stay on for this problem, literally every move my feet decided to slip off, making for a rather epic climb haha. 

            Qualifier 4 (Flash)
As soon as I turned around for problem four I knew and saw all of the small but positive crimps, I knew it was going down.  I love crimpy style problems. 

            Qualifier 5 (Flash)
As you can imagine I was pretty psyched at this moment having just flashed problems (1-4).  For problem five, I went right hand to a pocket then for the next move had to throw out to a crimp.  I was slightly nervous for this move because I could not find a way to do it static (as you can see in the video).  I ended up blindly dyno-ing for the crimp over the lip and to my surprise and excitement, I caught it!  The problem finished up with some technical crimp moves. 

            Qualifier 6 (Bonus)
After climbing five problems, fatigue was starting to set in, although I still had enough gas in the tank for one good burn.  I ended up getting the bonus without too much trouble.  For some reason after pulling the crux move, I decided to down climb and try another way to get to the top (not smart idea) lol.  My first burn ended up being my best attempt for this problem.  Unfortunately, I was not able to keep the flash streak going, however I had made it to the next day which was all I really cared about. J