Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Rifle!!


After the SLC ORSM, my friends and I decided to go to Rifle, Colorado. We crammed four people into a little Nissan Versa and away we went. We rolled into Rifle Mountain National Park around midnight. The following day we decided to check out Ruckman Craig. I had my eyes set on ‘Don’t point that thing at me’ a relatively short powerful 5.13c. It started off with about 45ft of a sustained 11d then transitioned into a pretty tough v9 boulder problem, into about 20ft of pretty easy flat wall climbing. By the time I had worked out the beta I had run out of steam for the day. After a good nights sleep, I went back to Ruckman and sent ‘Don’t point that thing at me’ first go. I was super stoked!! I then set my eyes on ‘Beer Run’ a super classic 5.13a. It was one of the longer routes that I got on while in Rifle at around 90ft. My first attempt on the route was spent trying to figure out the beta. After I was sure I had all the moves down, I went back up it later on in the day and sent. The next day we decided to check out Winchester Cave. I really wanted to try ‘7 PM Show’ which I read was a good 5.14a for young climbers, along with ‘American Prayer’ another 5.14a. I was able to get about half way up ‘7 PM Show’ and make some progress on ‘American Prayer’. I was really excited to get to work some 5.14’s. Even though I did not send, I feel trying the routes made me a stronger and more well rounded climber. I was also able to get ‘Bite the Bullet’ 5.13c down to one fall. I can’t wait to go back to try and send that route. The third day we went to Wicked Cave. I was really pumped to get on ‘Believe It’ another really short powerful 5.13c. My second attempt on it, I fell two moves two moves from the clipping jug. I was confused and tried to dyno to a non-existent hold. I was pretty bummed. I tried it again and got close to the top but was too tired to hang on. That night all I could think about was sending that route. I ran the sequence through my mind over and over again until I had that thing down. The next morning it was game time. After warming up, I got my game face on and sent ‘Believe It” first go. This route was really different than a lot of routes I had done because it had two knee bars, one right before the crux and one right before you clipped the anchors. It was really cool to be able to experience and learn a new style of climbing that I am not very used to. Shortly after, I Flashed ‘The Beast with two Backs’ 5.13a. Rifle is a very sick place to climb. I recommend if you have not gone, GO! The routes there are amazing and will challenge you in many different ways. I cannot wait to go back!!

Trade Show


August 31st 2010. I boarded my plane which was headed to Salt Lake City, Utah for the annual Outdoor Retail Show and Unified Bouldering Championship competition. This was my first OR competition in Utah. Unfortunately, I was not able to train as much as I had wanted to for the intense competition due to a recent ankle injury, however; I was as psyched as ever to climb with the Pro’s Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham and many others. Qualifiers were intense; the route setters did a very good job of keeping you on your toes with their unique setting style. I qualified 19th, earning me a spot into semi-finals. Our shuttle from the warm up area to semi-finals was a pimped out SUV stretch limo. The limo ride was super fun. I also enjoyed getting to know the other climbers during the ride as well. For semi-finals we had three routes. I onsited the first problem, which was a technical flat wall problem. This left me plenty of time and energy for the second and third problems which were both long powerful moves on an overhanging wall. I did equally well on both problems, getting about half way up on each one, which bumped me up to 16th for my overall score. Unfortunately, this was not good enough though to make finals. UBC did a really good job of putting on a very exciting final. Next year I plan to come back even stronger and make finals, be a part of the Finale experience.