Rock Candy Holds Blockus Showcase

Rock Candy Holds released the Blockus XL set not too long ago and as soon as I saw them I just had to have them!  I have always been a big fan of pinches but have never had the chance to climb on such massive ones until now.  Rock Candy Holds was nice enough to send me a set to test out.  As soon as they arrived I could not wait to set some problems with them.
Here is a little video just showing off some ideas of what you could potentially set with them.  (Warning video isn't a production film or anything lol)  Hope you enjoy it!

Blockus XL Showcase Rock Candy Holds from Alex Johnson on Vimeo.

I hope you enjoyed the video, buy a set and see what your inspiration motivates you to set!

You can purchase these bad boys at   Rock Candy Holds.com

Adidas Rock Stars Write Up (Full Version)

Day 1

Today began the qualification round of the Adidas Rock Stars bouldering competition that is being held inside the Porsche Arena, Stuttgart, Germany. I could not have asked for a better start to the competition, placing 12th with 3 out of 4 tops at the end of the round earning me a spot into the next round. I came soooo close to sending that last boulder, eyeing the last hold for way too long before I eventually gassed out. The boulders were all very unique and well set for a qualification round. The biggest change that I noticed about these climbs versus American style boulders is that they pack the whole climb into about 4-6 moves.

To train for this competition, I took a rather different approach. I felt as if I was having a hard time progressing with just climbing for training as I was lacking that explosive power needed. So I decided to hit the work out gym for some heavy lifting. I have experimented with some light lifting before with positive results but just never really stuck with it. So far the results have been amazing as I felt the strongest that I have ever felt today in a long time for qualifiers, despite the fact that I have not touched a climbing hold in about 15 days lol. Even though I have added on some muscle mass, I feel even lighter as my body is that much stronger. If you lack that explosive power, I would suggest that you try lifting out alongside climbing.

Day 2

After another exciting day of competing at the Adidas Rock Stars event, I ended up placing 18th overall out of 34 from a very strong list of competitors. The climbs were once again spectacular. Chris Danielson and all the setters did a great job of setting some unique and challenging climbs. We were allowed to see the boulders before we went into isolation, unlike most bouldering events where you are not allowed to see the climbs until you are called out. It was nice to be able to see what type of boulders faced you so that in the isolation I could tailor my warm up to certain moves I knew would be out there.

I am very happy with my performance at the event, despite the fact that I know I could have performed better in the semifinals. Round three of the four climbs were well within my ability. Warming up has always been a challenge for me, as sometimes I nail it and others I warm up too little or too much. This plays a huge role in my performance. In the qualifiers I warmed up perfectly and was able to climb my absolute best, where as for semifinals I did not and ended up getting flashed pumped on the first problem. I still fought through the pump till the end but it did add another challenge. Competition climbing really for me all comes down to the warm up. Time to go back to the drawing board to see if I can't get a general warm up plan for the next event.

Adidas out did themselves at this event by doing an amazing job of promoting the athletes and making us feel like professionals, unlike most events where the climbers have to foot all the expenses, all we had to do was just get to the event and Adidas made sure that we didn’t have to spend another dime.  If I could only go to one event a year I would without a doubt pick this one!  Adidas knows how to throw a competition and I am very thankful that I was able to be a part of it through everyone’s support. 

After I finished up climbing my qualifier routes I was given the chance the sign some posters for a large group of kids that had been at the event that day.  Naturally I jumped on the chance as I really enjoy doing things like this for the youth.  

Adidas Rock Stars Live Coverage

Watch it here http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/index.php?id=140
The live stream will start at 1800CEST with a concert by the up-and-coming Austrian band Beth Edges.

Adidas Rock Stars Day 1

Today began the Qualification round of the Adidas Rock Stars bouldering competition that is being held inside the Porsche Arena, Stuttgart Germany.  I could not have asked for a better start to the competition, placing 12th with 3 out of 4 tops at the end of the round earning me a spot into the next round.  I came soooo close to sending that last boulder, eyeing the last hold for way too long before I eventually gassed out.  The boulders were all very unique and well set for a qualification round.  The biggest change that I noticed about these climbs versus American style boulders is that they pack the whole climb in about 4-6 moves. 

To train for this competition I took a rather different approach.  I felt as if I was having a hard time progressing with just climbing for training as I was lacking that explosive power needed.  So I decided to hit the work out gym for some heavy lifting.  I have experimented with some light lifting before with positive results but just never really stuck with it.  So far the results have been amazing as I felt the strongest that I have ever felt today in a long time for qualifiers, despite the fact that I have not touched a climbing hold in about 15 days lol. Even though I have added on some muscle mass I feel even lighter as my body is that much stronger.  If you have lack that explosive power I would suggest that you try lifting out along side climbing.

Anyways here are some shots from Qualifiers:  Click Here
 for all the shots!!

Once again a BIG Thanks to everyone who has donated to help send me to this event, without you all I would not be here!!

Spray A Thon 5.13c/8a+ Rifle, CO

Spray-A-Thon 513c/8a+ Rifle - Alex David Johnson from Alex Johnson on Vimeo.

Alex David Johnson's ascent of Spray A Thon 13.c at Rifle Colorado, July. 
Music: Lie down in darkness (Arno Cost Remix) - Moby
Video Person: Tracy Ng 
Camera: HTC One S

Fundraising for the Adidas Rock Stars Bouldering Competition Stuttgart, Germany

Hey everyone, too my excitement I have been invited to compete within the 2nd annual Adidas Rock Stars Bouldering Competition being held in Stuttgart, Germany this year and  I could really use your help to get there.  Also, any left over money will go to help the "Wounded Warrior Project" you can learn about it here: http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/

Info on the Adidas Rock Stars Competition:
http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/

Donate Here

2012 Dominion RiverRock Boulder Bash by SportBackers

The second annual Dominion River Rock Boulder Bash began on Thursday with the Dyno qualification round with a total of 12 Dynos. Your top 5 dynos advanced you to the Finals round which was on Sunday afternoon.  For the Dyno qualification round each person had two one minutes rounds to attempt their tope five dynos.  They took turns alternating between the female and male competitors.  Then everyone had 20 minutes for an open session on the wall to go for one more Dyno.

Dyno Wall

Friday kicked off the start of the Bouldering event.  Qualifiers consisted of two problems, both of which resulted in a Flash for myself.  The first climb was a nice warm up to get you used to steep overhang and the second climb felt more like a route than a boulder problem, which left me rather pumped. 

Jimmy Webb Quali #1

The next morning I woke at 7am, grabbed some breakfast then headed off to Peak Experiences Climbing Gym for an athlete meet and greet with their youth climbing team.  Sport backers provided some really awesome autograph cards for us to sign for the kids.  Once the autograph signing was finished we all headed outside to play some games with the kids.  I really had a great time hanging out with everyone from Peak Experiences and hope to be able to do it again next year.

Later that day at 1:30 began the quarterfinals round.  The first climb didn’t have any particularly hard moves in it but you definitely had to climb it fast so that you didn’t end up getting too pumped hanging upside down forever.  The last move however was rather spicy as you had to match a giant egrips sloper and if you weren’t solid on it you could slip off going for the final jug.  The next climb was all power with a toe hook start into a few campus moves that led to a huge double clutch dyno into 2 more technical moves that then brought you to the top.  Most everyone except for Daniel Woods got stuck at the dyno move.  It was very inspiring to see Daniel crush the move that had shut down everyone prior. 

Quarter Final #1

Topping Quarter Final #1

Semi-Finals were held several hours later, which consisted of just one climb.  During the preview my initial thoughts were that it was not going to be that hard.  Boy was I wrong lol this was without a doubt the hardest climb of the event.  I ended up making it about half way through the climb, only a few moves below the high point of people who did not send the climb.  Daniel ended up sending the climb, he would have flashed except the jump start dyno gave him some trouble, Vasya made a very impressive flash of the climb as well earning him the top spot going into finals. 

Semi Finals

I was actually very happy to be going out rather early for the Finals round, this allowed me to get in a good warm up in, as the warm up wall could get rather crowded with all the competitors on it.  The Finals climbed opened with a super fun jump start to a huge jug, a few powerful and technical roof climbing moves got you ready for giant dyno in the middle of the climb.  I ended up sticking the dyno on my third attempt, rested a bit on the jug after the dyno and geared up for the last few hard moves.  I felt super solid as I neared the finish, however time was not on my side with about five seconds left and 3 more moves to go I just ended up going big for the finish hold.  I sadly didn’t snag it and took the huge but fun fall to the pads below.  Only Jimmy Webb was able to get higher than me by a hold, putting him in first place and me in second.  As you can imagine I was rather excited to end up finishing second place against such a strong field. 

Finals Photos

Finals Video

The Dyno Finals followed shortly after with Jimmy Webb finishing 1^st and myself in 2^nd.

Dyno Finals Video 

Brent Q, Shane Messer and everyone else who helped out together the competition did an amazing job and I can’t wait till next years event.    

IFSC Climbing WC 2012 - Lead & Speed - Chamonix, FRA

Tune into watch our fellow American climbers (Vasya, Sasha, Josh and Jacquelyn) give it all they have got at the Chamonix World Cup in France.

Live Feed!!

Schedule:

Thursday 12th July Men & women lead qualification 09:30 – 16:00  men’s qualification (route 1 & route 2) 10:00 – 14:00  women’s qualification (route 1 & route 2) Men & women speed qualification 17:00  women’s qualification 18:00  men’s qualification Men & women speed finals 20:45  grouping men & women in the warming zone 21:00  speed final round

Friday 13th July Men & women lead semi-finals 13:30  observation period men & women 14:00  start of semi-finals men & women Men & women lead finals 21:00  start of men and women finals 22:45  awarding ceremony

2 New Blog Posts and some exciting news!

Hey Everyone!
Sorry the blog has been rather inactive at the moment however, I will have 2 brand new posts up veryyyy soon!  Keep checking back. :D

Vail Bouldering World Cup Live Feed 2012!

Competing June 1st at the IFSC Bouldering World Cup at 6:30pm Denver Time. Watch it live at www.ifsc.tv

VOTE!!

Give a vote for Rock Candy Holds!!!
Rock Candy Holds has been looking to build a climbing gym in the Akron area. Rock Candy Holds is a big part of this and we have applied for a grant to help with the start-up costs. We need 250 votes to be considered so please take a minute and vote! 

All you need to do is click on the link slow and click the login/support button. From here you can search for rock candy holds, then click the vote button.

Thanks so much!

https://www.missionsmallbusiness.com/

Ring of Fire, Central Rocks Annual Sport Climbing Series

Central Rock Climbing Competition

            This past weekend I set off again for the third competition in a row this month, this time held at Central Rock Climbing Gym, in Hadley Massachusetts.  This event was the first of an Central Rocks annual sport climbing competition series “Ring of Fire” as each year they will give out a ring to the winner.  

Qualifiers

            I thought the way they had decided to run the qualifying round as a redpoint format was an excellent idea.  They had 3 climbs, per each respective category, and when the climbers were ready they could slip their card into the pile and then climb the route.  I feel that within this format you are able to get the most out of the climbers because they are able to control when they wish to climb the route versus a set schedule like most rope comps.  The first climb was a nice warm up climb to get everyone warmed up for the next two problems, which were rather challenging.  The second climb was one of the coolest climbs that I have climbed within a qualifying round thus far, it had mantle half way though the climb from two volumes to a third one higher up.  Vasya and I were the only two climbers to compete this route with Daniel Woods coming inches from snagging with finish.  The last route was all business as high point, set by myself, was about only half way up the climb.  I had a nice little scare on this climb as during the tricky middle section I had forgotten to clip, I would have not noticed until some fellow climbers thankfully yelled at me to clip.  To pumped to down climb and get the clip below me I geared up for the big fall and possible deck.  The belayer did a mazing job of providing a wonderfully soft catch just a few feet from the ground.   

Finals

            Going last out for Finals is always exciting and nerve wrecking at the same time as the time seems to drag on forever as you eagerly wait for your time to climb.  I like to plug in my headphones and block out everything and just really focus again and again on the sequence of the finals climb.  I stepped out from behind the curtain to the roar of the crowd, sequenced the route the one last time, pulled on the start holds and started climbing.  To avoid getting pumped to early while in the climb I really focused on climbing as smoothly and as fast as I could.  I slowed down to maneuver the very exciting bat hang move to pull out of the lip, chalked up on the hold preceding the bat hang and then quickly motored my way to the finish.  Two moves from the finish I stumbled a little as I was not quite sure how to make the next move, after fumbling with my feet for a few seconds in hopes of making the move feel secure I had pumped myself out, I tried to somehow just dyno to the finish but to no avail.  When I am unsure of move I really need to remember to just go for it anyways, instead of messing around and pumping myself out.  I knew I had done well as the roar of the crowd kept getting louder and louder the higher I went near the top but I was still unsure of my finals placement, as there was a very strong field of climbers consisting of: Daniel Woods, Vasya, Jimmy Webb, Josh Levin and Nicholas Millburn. 

For the first time ever I won my first ever Sport climbing competition.  This was a nice little boost after not even making finals at the SCS Sport Climbing Nationals, 2 weeks prior.  They did an amazing job with the event this year and cannot even imagine how they are going to step it up next year.  I now have a few weeks to rest and train for the second annual “Dominion River Rock Competition”.

Thanks to everyone who came out and watched, and to all of my Sponsors:  Rock Candy Holds, Power Bar, Jan Sport, Organic and Five Ten. 

Finals Climbs

Men: Blue Women: Orange

Highlight Video

-ADJ

Canadian Bouldering Nationals (Tour De Bloc 2012)

Canadian Nationals

            For the second year in a row I was able to head on up to Canada to compete within the Canadian Nationals, this year held in Montreal.  Yet again the Tour De Bloc crew did an amazing job of putting together a great competition. 

Qualifiers

           The qualifying round began April 15^th very early in the morning compared to most comps in the US.  It took a little while for my body to get used to the early morning climb as I had just arrived just a little before midnight, from Denver, the night before.  Thankfully, I had some time to relax within the isolation area before I climbed as I did not climb till later on in the evening.  The Qualifying round consisted of 5 problems with 5 minutes rest in between.  I enjoy competing within competitions outside of the US to experience all the different types of setting; I feel this helps myself as a climber improve.  At the end of qualifiers Sean Mcoll and I were both tied for first, who like myself had flashed all 5 of the problems. 

Qualifier #2 - Photo: France Lavoie

Qualifier #4 Photo: France Lavoie

Qualifier #5 Photo: France Lavoie


Finals

            Finals were held the next day later in the evening, which allowed us to get some much-needed sleep.  Again we had 5 problems for finals with 5 minutes rest.  I ended up sending all of the climbs earning me 2^nd place for the comp however, some slips on the second climb which consisted of all volumes ended up costing me the win with Sean Mcoll who had a very impressive day with a flash of all the climbs. 

Getting ready for Finals #3 Photo: France Lavoie

Finals #3 Photo: France Lavoie

  

Finals #5 Photo: France Lavoie

Finals #5 Photo: Carmen Ing

Photo: France Lavoie

            The Tour De, Bloc really knows how to put together a competition, I really hope to be able to go back next year and compete within their Nationals again. 

Thanks to everyone who came out and watched, and to all of my Sponsors:  Rock Candy Holds, Power Bar, Jan Sport, Organic and Five Ten. 

Check out the highlight videos from “G6 Climbing” form both Qualifiers and Finals

Qualifiers Video

Finals Video

-ADJ

Central Rock Pro Rock Comp Live Feed!

Hopefully there will be LiveFeed of Finals, April 21st @5pm Boston time!! 

Live stream by Ustream

2012 SCS Nationals Write-Up

     The 2012 SCS Open Nationals were held yet again at Movement in Boulder.  This years competition went very smoothly without any major hiccups that can sometimes unfortunately happen at these big events.  Like last year, I competed within both the sport and speed events. 

Sport Qualifying round

     The format for the qualifying round was almost identical to the way that the World Championships was held last year at least.  Both the men and women were given two climbs, flash format style.  Half of the climbers started on the first climb while the other half started on the second climb.  Once everyone was finished from both sides they then switched climbs and moved to a rolling clock of 5 minutes to move the event along versus the 5 minutes allotted for the first climb. 

      My first climb I ended up falling going for the last hold before the anchors.  I should have sent it but I knew it was good enough for finals just as long as I did not screw it up on the second climb.  The second qualifier was a lot of fun with a huge no hands knee bar about 5 clips in.  Sadly, I was not able to utilize it as I was not pumped enough to justify staying their for long.  I then quickly climbed through the next crux, a huge cross through to a crimp under a volume, to what I thought was another knee bar.  However it proved to be a teaser knee bar and did not help at all.  Moving quicker now to avoid further pump for the hard finish, I traversed left along the route, to at least for me an awkward left bump out to a jug.  For some reason my right hand was not wanting to grip the underside of the volume which would allow me to make the move.  Instead of just going for it anyways I decided to try the failed knee bar I had just left.  If I could just get a quick second to recover I knew I could readjust to make the move.  Sadly the knee bar didn’t want to work again, by this time I was very pumped and ended up falling seconds later. 

      This little mess up ended up costing me a place in finals this year, finishing 10^th.  I have learned a lot from this event and the fact of not making finals is only more motivation to prove myself that much more at the next event.

Qualifier #1

"Julian Boyd"

Speed

      The last time I had touched the speed holds or climbed on the speed wall was this past summer at the Arco Championships.  Thankfully despite this I was able to get back into speed climbing mode and get a Finals time of 5.91seconds for the 10 meter.  I again was awarded the title for the 2^nd year in a row of “2012 Speed SCS National Champion”  This was definitely I nice little boost after not making sport finals. 

Photo "Julian Boyd"

Photo "Richard Levin"

Speed Finals Video!

    Now back to the gym to train on some “Rock Candy Holds” for the 2012 Canadian Bouldering Nationals, being held in Montreal Canada April 14^th and 15h. 

     Thanks to everyone who came out and watched, and to all of my Sponsors:  Rock Candy Holds, Power Bar, Jan Sport, Organic and Five Ten. 

Stay tuned for the Canadian Nationals write up!.

Check out the amazing highlight video from LT11 from finals, they really outdid themselves this time!!

Ali Nomad 5.14b/8c, Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado

Here is the video of me on Dave Graham's route "Ali-Nomad", a link up of the v11 "Off the Books into "Freaks and Geeks" 5.14/13d.  Video is shot and edited by Allen Chaney.  Enjoy!

Stay tuned for more footage!!

2012 SCS Nationals!

The 2012 Open Sport Nationals is next weekend April 6-7 at Movement, Boulder.  I am very excited for this years competition.  If you are in the area you should definitely come and check it out.  The ful schedule can be found >HERE<.

Last years Mens highlights!

   

Last years Womens highlights! 

   

ABS Nationals 2012 Open Video

Here is a nice little video of all the climbs that I did for the 2012 American Open Bouldering Nationals, minus finals.  Enjoy!!

Private Climbing Instruction within Colorado!!!

Hi everyone,  I have just launched my new website "Climb Stronger"  go check it out!!
Offering:
Beginner Class
Private Instruction
Private Instruction for the competing youth climber

Rock Candy Set of the YEAR!!

Rock Candy Holds "Skimpies" are a must buy!!  The perfect trainer holds to get your fingers ready for anything you might encounter.  I have had many people ask whats a good way to train to get strong on crimmpers, and this hold set is your answer.  Buy a set or even two for your home wall or get your gym to buy some.  You will not regret it!!

BUY HERE!

Please do not hesitate to ask about any of the other holds as I have climbed on almost all of them.

Know your 5.10 shoe size!!!!!

Looking to make the switch to 5.10 or change to a new 5.10 shoe???  As we all know or will soon realize that knowing your correct shoe size for a climbing shoe is nearly impossible.  Luckily, I am here to help in that area.  I will give you a list of all the shoes along with their sizes that I have worn.  Hopefully you have worn at least one of the shoes mentioned and then can there for adjust appropriately to the correct size within the desired shoe.

Five Ten Teams = 12
Five Ten Dragon = 12
Five Ten Hornet = 12
Five Ten Quantum = 12
Five Ten Jet 7 = 11
Five Ten Blackwings =  I believe fit same as Jet 7


Five Ten Descent = 11 (going off memory will check when home)
All Five Ten Free Riders = 11
Five Ten Chase Series = 11 (going off memory will check when home)

Evolve Defy = 11
Evolve Pontas = 11

Las Sportiva Solutions = 42.5

Hope this helps!!!!  

Bouldering at Evergreen, Colorado.

This past tuesday was an amazing 70 degrees,  and I just had to get outside!  I had my eyes set on Rock Cheetah v12+ along with the traverse project into it.  I came very close to sending Rock Cheetah but could not quite snag the opening crux move,  a big left hand gaston move to a sharp crimp.  By the time I had figured out some good beta my fingers were too sore from working the top moves as I had no spotters and was holding on tighter than usual to make sure I hit the small landing zone below me.  I was however able to snag the First Ascent of the traverse project and dubbed it "Death Wish" v10.  I am very excited to go back with fresh hands and hopefully some more pads and spotters next time to give Rock Cheetah a send go.  

- ADJ 

ABS Nationals Live Stream!!!

Update:
Due to rolling iso format, qualifiers wont be online.  However, Saturday should be up and running!  This is a very simple live feed here do not be expecting anything fancy :p.  I will do my best to set up the camera so that the whole wall will be visible.  Thanks for tuning in everyone, Enjoy!

Alex J

ABS Nationals 2012 Livestream!

Hey Everyone I know USA Climbing said no LiveStream, However I will be posting a Ustream Live Feed of Qualifiers!!!      Will most likely start around Noon Denver time and go throughout the duration about 6pm.   Will keep ya updated!! :DD

Schedule:  http://www.absnationals.org/08/details/index.htm

Big Ups Power Bar!

Thanks Power Bar for Hooking it up!!