2 New Blog Posts and some exciting news!

Hey Everyone!
Sorry the blog has been rather inactive at the moment however, I will have 2 brand new posts up veryyyy soon!  Keep checking back. :D

Vail Bouldering World Cup Live Feed 2012!

Competing June 1st at the IFSC Bouldering World Cup at 6:30pm Denver Time. Watch it live at www.ifsc.tv

VOTE!!

Give a vote for Rock Candy Holds!!!
Rock Candy Holds has been looking to build a climbing gym in the Akron area. Rock Candy Holds is a big part of this and we have applied for a grant to help with the start-up costs. We need 250 votes to be considered so please take a minute and vote! 

All you need to do is click on the link slow and click the login/support button. From here you can search for rock candy holds, then click the vote button.

Thanks so much!

https://www.missionsmallbusiness.com/

Ring of Fire, Central Rocks Annual Sport Climbing Series

Central Rock Climbing Competition

            This past weekend I set off again for the third competition in a row this month, this time held at Central Rock Climbing Gym, in Hadley Massachusetts.  This event was the first of an Central Rocks annual sport climbing competition series “Ring of Fire” as each year they will give out a ring to the winner.  

Qualifiers

            I thought the way they had decided to run the qualifying round as a redpoint format was an excellent idea.  They had 3 climbs, per each respective category, and when the climbers were ready they could slip their card into the pile and then climb the route.  I feel that within this format you are able to get the most out of the climbers because they are able to control when they wish to climb the route versus a set schedule like most rope comps.  The first climb was a nice warm up climb to get everyone warmed up for the next two problems, which were rather challenging.  The second climb was one of the coolest climbs that I have climbed within a qualifying round thus far, it had mantle half way though the climb from two volumes to a third one higher up.  Vasya and I were the only two climbers to compete this route with Daniel Woods coming inches from snagging with finish.  The last route was all business as high point, set by myself, was about only half way up the climb.  I had a nice little scare on this climb as during the tricky middle section I had forgotten to clip, I would have not noticed until some fellow climbers thankfully yelled at me to clip.  To pumped to down climb and get the clip below me I geared up for the big fall and possible deck.  The belayer did a mazing job of providing a wonderfully soft catch just a few feet from the ground.   

Finals

            Going last out for Finals is always exciting and nerve wrecking at the same time as the time seems to drag on forever as you eagerly wait for your time to climb.  I like to plug in my headphones and block out everything and just really focus again and again on the sequence of the finals climb.  I stepped out from behind the curtain to the roar of the crowd, sequenced the route the one last time, pulled on the start holds and started climbing.  To avoid getting pumped to early while in the climb I really focused on climbing as smoothly and as fast as I could.  I slowed down to maneuver the very exciting bat hang move to pull out of the lip, chalked up on the hold preceding the bat hang and then quickly motored my way to the finish.  Two moves from the finish I stumbled a little as I was not quite sure how to make the next move, after fumbling with my feet for a few seconds in hopes of making the move feel secure I had pumped myself out, I tried to somehow just dyno to the finish but to no avail.  When I am unsure of move I really need to remember to just go for it anyways, instead of messing around and pumping myself out.  I knew I had done well as the roar of the crowd kept getting louder and louder the higher I went near the top but I was still unsure of my finals placement, as there was a very strong field of climbers consisting of: Daniel Woods, Vasya, Jimmy Webb, Josh Levin and Nicholas Millburn. 

For the first time ever I won my first ever Sport climbing competition.  This was a nice little boost after not even making finals at the SCS Sport Climbing Nationals, 2 weeks prior.  They did an amazing job with the event this year and cannot even imagine how they are going to step it up next year.  I now have a few weeks to rest and train for the second annual “Dominion River Rock Competition”.

Thanks to everyone who came out and watched, and to all of my Sponsors:  Rock Candy Holds, Power Bar, Jan Sport, Organic and Five Ten. 

Finals Climbs

Men: Blue Women: Orange

Highlight Video

-ADJ

Canadian Bouldering Nationals (Tour De Bloc 2012)

Canadian Nationals

            For the second year in a row I was able to head on up to Canada to compete within the Canadian Nationals, this year held in Montreal.  Yet again the Tour De Bloc crew did an amazing job of putting together a great competition. 

Qualifiers

           The qualifying round began April 15^th very early in the morning compared to most comps in the US.  It took a little while for my body to get used to the early morning climb as I had just arrived just a little before midnight, from Denver, the night before.  Thankfully, I had some time to relax within the isolation area before I climbed as I did not climb till later on in the evening.  The Qualifying round consisted of 5 problems with 5 minutes rest in between.  I enjoy competing within competitions outside of the US to experience all the different types of setting; I feel this helps myself as a climber improve.  At the end of qualifiers Sean Mcoll and I were both tied for first, who like myself had flashed all 5 of the problems. 

Qualifier #2 - Photo: France Lavoie

Qualifier #4 Photo: France Lavoie

Qualifier #5 Photo: France Lavoie


Finals

            Finals were held the next day later in the evening, which allowed us to get some much-needed sleep.  Again we had 5 problems for finals with 5 minutes rest.  I ended up sending all of the climbs earning me 2^nd place for the comp however, some slips on the second climb which consisted of all volumes ended up costing me the win with Sean Mcoll who had a very impressive day with a flash of all the climbs. 

Getting ready for Finals #3 Photo: France Lavoie

Finals #3 Photo: France Lavoie

  

Finals #5 Photo: France Lavoie

Finals #5 Photo: Carmen Ing

Photo: France Lavoie

            The Tour De, Bloc really knows how to put together a competition, I really hope to be able to go back next year and compete within their Nationals again. 

Thanks to everyone who came out and watched, and to all of my Sponsors:  Rock Candy Holds, Power Bar, Jan Sport, Organic and Five Ten. 

Check out the highlight videos from “G6 Climbing” form both Qualifiers and Finals

Qualifiers Video

Finals Video

-ADJ

Central Rock Pro Rock Comp Live Feed!

Hopefully there will be LiveFeed of Finals, April 21st @5pm Boston time!! 

Live stream by Ustream

2012 SCS Nationals Write-Up

     The 2012 SCS Open Nationals were held yet again at Movement in Boulder.  This years competition went very smoothly without any major hiccups that can sometimes unfortunately happen at these big events.  Like last year, I competed within both the sport and speed events. 

Sport Qualifying round

     The format for the qualifying round was almost identical to the way that the World Championships was held last year at least.  Both the men and women were given two climbs, flash format style.  Half of the climbers started on the first climb while the other half started on the second climb.  Once everyone was finished from both sides they then switched climbs and moved to a rolling clock of 5 minutes to move the event along versus the 5 minutes allotted for the first climb. 

      My first climb I ended up falling going for the last hold before the anchors.  I should have sent it but I knew it was good enough for finals just as long as I did not screw it up on the second climb.  The second qualifier was a lot of fun with a huge no hands knee bar about 5 clips in.  Sadly, I was not able to utilize it as I was not pumped enough to justify staying their for long.  I then quickly climbed through the next crux, a huge cross through to a crimp under a volume, to what I thought was another knee bar.  However it proved to be a teaser knee bar and did not help at all.  Moving quicker now to avoid further pump for the hard finish, I traversed left along the route, to at least for me an awkward left bump out to a jug.  For some reason my right hand was not wanting to grip the underside of the volume which would allow me to make the move.  Instead of just going for it anyways I decided to try the failed knee bar I had just left.  If I could just get a quick second to recover I knew I could readjust to make the move.  Sadly the knee bar didn’t want to work again, by this time I was very pumped and ended up falling seconds later. 

      This little mess up ended up costing me a place in finals this year, finishing 10^th.  I have learned a lot from this event and the fact of not making finals is only more motivation to prove myself that much more at the next event.

Qualifier #1

"Julian Boyd"

Speed

      The last time I had touched the speed holds or climbed on the speed wall was this past summer at the Arco Championships.  Thankfully despite this I was able to get back into speed climbing mode and get a Finals time of 5.91seconds for the 10 meter.  I again was awarded the title for the 2^nd year in a row of “2012 Speed SCS National Champion”  This was definitely I nice little boost after not making sport finals. 

Photo "Julian Boyd"

Photo "Richard Levin"

Speed Finals Video!

    Now back to the gym to train on some “Rock Candy Holds” for the 2012 Canadian Bouldering Nationals, being held in Montreal Canada April 14^th and 15h. 

     Thanks to everyone who came out and watched, and to all of my Sponsors:  Rock Candy Holds, Power Bar, Jan Sport, Organic and Five Ten. 

Stay tuned for the Canadian Nationals write up!.

Check out the amazing highlight video from LT11 from finals, they really outdid themselves this time!!

Ali Nomad 5.14b/8c, Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado

Here is the video of me on Dave Graham's route "Ali-Nomad", a link up of the v11 "Off the Books into "Freaks and Geeks" 5.14/13d.  Video is shot and edited by Allen Chaney.  Enjoy!

Stay tuned for more footage!!

2012 SCS Nationals!

The 2012 Open Sport Nationals is next weekend April 6-7 at Movement, Boulder.  I am very excited for this years competition.  If you are in the area you should definitely come and check it out.  The ful schedule can be found >HERE<.

Last years Mens highlights!

   

Last years Womens highlights! 

   

ABS Nationals 2012 Open Video

Here is a nice little video of all the climbs that I did for the 2012 American Open Bouldering Nationals, minus finals.  Enjoy!!

Private Climbing Instruction within Colorado!!!

Hi everyone,  I have just launched my new website "Climb Stronger"  go check it out!!
Offering:
Beginner Class
Private Instruction
Private Instruction for the competing youth climber

Rock Candy Set of the YEAR!!

Rock Candy Holds "Skimpies" are a must buy!!  The perfect trainer holds to get your fingers ready for anything you might encounter.  I have had many people ask whats a good way to train to get strong on crimmpers, and this hold set is your answer.  Buy a set or even two for your home wall or get your gym to buy some.  You will not regret it!!

BUY HERE!

Please do not hesitate to ask about any of the other holds as I have climbed on almost all of them.

Know your 5.10 shoe size!!!!!

Looking to make the switch to 5.10 or change to a new 5.10 shoe???  As we all know or will soon realize that knowing your correct shoe size for a climbing shoe is nearly impossible.  Luckily, I am here to help in that area.  I will give you a list of all the shoes along with their sizes that I have worn.  Hopefully you have worn at least one of the shoes mentioned and then can there for adjust appropriately to the correct size within the desired shoe.

Five Ten Teams = 12
Five Ten Dragon = 12
Five Ten Hornet = 12
Five Ten Quantum = 12
Five Ten Jet 7 = 11
Five Ten Blackwings =  I believe fit same as Jet 7


Five Ten Descent = 11 (going off memory will check when home)
All Five Ten Free Riders = 11
Five Ten Chase Series = 11 (going off memory will check when home)

Evolve Defy = 11
Evolve Pontas = 11

Las Sportiva Solutions = 42.5

Hope this helps!!!!  

Bouldering at Evergreen, Colorado.

This past tuesday was an amazing 70 degrees,  and I just had to get outside!  I had my eyes set on Rock Cheetah v12+ along with the traverse project into it.  I came very close to sending Rock Cheetah but could not quite snag the opening crux move,  a big left hand gaston move to a sharp crimp.  By the time I had figured out some good beta my fingers were too sore from working the top moves as I had no spotters and was holding on tighter than usual to make sure I hit the small landing zone below me.  I was however able to snag the First Ascent of the traverse project and dubbed it "Death Wish" v10.  I am very excited to go back with fresh hands and hopefully some more pads and spotters next time to give Rock Cheetah a send go.  

- ADJ 

ABS Nationals Live Stream!!!

Update:
Due to rolling iso format, qualifiers wont be online.  However, Saturday should be up and running!  This is a very simple live feed here do not be expecting anything fancy :p.  I will do my best to set up the camera so that the whole wall will be visible.  Thanks for tuning in everyone, Enjoy!

Alex J

ABS Nationals 2012 Livestream!

Hey Everyone I know USA Climbing said no LiveStream, However I will be posting a Ustream Live Feed of Qualifiers!!!      Will most likely start around Noon Denver time and go throughout the duration about 6pm.   Will keep ya updated!! :DD

Schedule:  http://www.absnationals.org/08/details/index.htm

Big Ups Power Bar!

Thanks Power Bar for Hooking it up!!

170+ New Rock Candy Holds!!!!!

Website

PowerBar!!!!

Is very excited to add PowerBar to the list of sponsors!!   Go buy some of their amazing products if you are not already eating them right now ;)  Power Bar

Jansport Gear Review

I have been using Jansport gear as a tote for my things to and from the gym, to the crag and for trips.  When I used to think of Jansport, I used to think of only school backpacks, however they actually have a huge line of Outdoor packs as well.  Web Link
Let me just take a moment to give you some feedback on several of the bags that I am using and love.
First on the list is the Snoqualmie, the perfect all around bag.
Uses:
- Couple day trip up to several months
- 5 Full sized compartments

When I first received the bag in preparation for my month long europe trip, my first thoughts were this is kinda tiny.  However, after several minutes of packing I realized that I was able to stuff about 30 shirts, 3 pants, 2 shorts, 2 sweatshirts, toiletries all into the main compartment.  (As well as some clothes + rope bag I picked up along the way) Whats nice about this pack is that when the main compartment is stuffed it does not intrude in your side compartments like some bags do.  I was then able to fit about 10 quickdraws into the first big side compartment and my socks and what have you in the smaller front pouch.  I still had another big side compartment and rear pouch left with which I filled with extra stuff.  What I am saying is you can fit a lot of stuff into this bag.  Consider this bag if you are in the market for a new travel bag, you wont regret it.

Dark Horse Championships

More detailed write up later,  + LT11 Highlight Video when it comes out, should be awesome!

2012 Dark Horse Series Championship Highlights from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.








Results: 

Men:

1. Daniel Woods - 46

2.Robby D - 43

3. Carlo - 42

4. Alex D Johnson (me) - 40

5.  Andy Lamb - 36

6.  Sebastian Lazure - 35
7.  Grady Bagwell - 32
8.  Steven Meinhold - 26

Women:

1.   Francesca Metcalf - 57

2.  Angie Payne - 57

3.  Kasia - 48

4.  Katie Lamb - 45

5.  Nadia Vorotnicova 4?
6.  Isabelle Faus - 43

7.  Amy Cockerham - 34
8.  Annalisa Flynne - 32

Training

I usually, have not been very big into training as I have found for me the best way to improve on my climbing is to just climb climb. However, being a tall climber like myself I have noticed especially in competitions that if there is any sort of one arm pull-up type move involved within the climb,  it kills me as I must pull up quite a long ways haha.   The DBC recently bought some weights and a bench press set.  I decided to give it a go (beginning of december), and I have definitely noticed a change in my climbing, I am able to lock off on much smaller holds better and longer than before.  Along with that my body feels more balanced, developing muscles that are not worked as much while climbing.

Here is a short example of a typical after climbing workout:

Bench-press

Lift into Military Press or just Standing Military Press

Arm Curl Lifts

Weighted Lock-Offs 

I think thats all, if not I will add it in later.

(Usually do 3 sets)

In addition, to the workout listed above I have been doing the Mens Health Spartacus Workout (Click for App Store  Link, free version also available).  This is a very intense fast paced all body workout, depending on weight amount etc.  I have been doing this workout for about 2 weeks now, start day #8 on Wed.  I also highly recommend this regimen as well and have personally noticed a benefit from it.  A plus to this one is only free weights needed and it can be done with no weights as well if desired.

I would love to know what you all think about these workouts if decide to do them and what the results are!

Clear Creek Canyon Primo Wall

Decided to go out to Primo Wall a couple weeks back (Jan 21st) with some mates from the gym (DBC): Allen Cheney, David Mullins and Mark Rohr.  First climb on my list to send was "Shine 14a" which I had tried a few times before in colder weather but just kept freezing off right after the crux, darn it haha.  The weather was very nice that day and go figure I forgot the beta.  After, I figured out the moves again, I sent next go.  Since I had finished up my project, I decided to give it a go at the 13's.

The first climb was Public Solitude (13b).  A very interesting climb, easy slab climbing into a tricky flat wall, sloper pinch, section with smear feet that then leads into some crimpy moves to quite a cool dihedral move to anchors.

After that, went right over to the Nomad Cave and made quick work of Express Yourself (13c).  I Ended up getting it 2nd go as I chuffed on a two finger precision move right at the start. Anyways, highly recommend this climb, it did not feel that hard but maybe just suited my style,  I dont know.  

Last on the list was River Run (13b), 5.9 climbing, that then leads into a short powerful v9 with some big moves.

Oh yes, I also climbed Crying Flyboys (13a),  a Mazy Mai style climb for those that are familier with that classic Red River Gorge climb.

Here are some pics of me on Crying Flyboys (13a)  Shot by David Mullins

Allen Cheney Next 2

Past Events: Mt Evans, Primo Wall

Right now as far as competitions go it is kinda slow, this has allowed me to take a few breaks from away from gym training to go and do some outside climbing.  I went up to Mt Evans Area A with Al Lew for the first time ever and got to try some classics:  No more greener grasses and Clear blue skies.  No send but got close on Clear blue skies.   I did however get the send on the classic v8 Dali and "     " v10.  Pics to follow!

This past weekend went climbing at the Primo Wall in Clear Creek Canyon.   It was my first time there so I did not know what to expect.  I really enjoyed it short powerful climbs.  I came soooooooo close to sending Slice of Life 14a got the past the cruxes then literally froze off a mini jug two moves from anchors sooooo frustrating.  Most climbers like the cold but I hate it, Id rather have it 80's and sunny :).  Next time the sun is out and its warm Ill be back to send that thing.

That's all for now! ADJ

UBC Pro Tour #3!!

Here are some sweet pictures form the UBC Pro Tour Competition SEPTEMBER 23-24   Held in Burlington Vermont along with a sick highlight video.

Robby D Sending Finals #4

Ian Dory on Finals #4 and Angie Payne sending Finals #4

The Champs Ian Dory and Angie Payne

Cred: Gabe DeWitt

Alex David Johnson sending Qualifier #4

Cred: Gabe Dewitt

Alex David Johnson Finals #1

Cred: 27 Crags

Highlight Video

The Unified Bouldering Championships - The North Face Open Highlights! from NE2C on Vimeo.

Results Top 10 Male

Place	Competitor	1	2	3	Tops	Total Points	Flashes	Attempts to Top	Attempts
1	Ian Dory	Flash	Flash	9	2	37	2	2	4
2	Rob D'Anastasio	Top	6	Flash	2	34	1	3	5
3	Ty Landman	Flash	5	Top	2	33	1	3	4
4	Vasya Vorotnikov	10	11	Top	1	38	0	2	5
5	Ethan Pringle	Top	11	16	1	38	0	3	7
6	Paul Robinson	Flash	12	9	1	32	1	1	4
7	Brian Kim	Top	10	11	1	32	0	2	6
8	Alex Johnson	9	11	8	0	28	0	0	5
9	Nick Picarella	8	11	9	0	28	0	0	7
10	Daniel Beall	8	5	13	0	26	0	0	3

Results Top 10 Female

Place	Competitor	1	2	3	Tops	Total Points	Flashes	Attempts to Top	Attempts
1	Angie Payne	Flash	Flash	Flash	3	37	3	3	3
2	Lizzy Asher	Flash	Top	12	2	36	1	3	4
3	Alex Johnson	Flash	9	Flash	2	33	2	2	4
4	Isabelle Faus	Flash	9	8	1	28	1	1	5
5	Kati Peters	Top	6	8	1	25	0	2	4
6	Nadya Vorotnikova	Top	6	7	1	24	0	2	4
7	Sierra Blair Coyle	7	6	11	0	24	0	0	3
8	Tiffany Hensley	7	6	8	0	21	0	0	3
9	Melissa Godowski	7	5	8	0	20	0	0	5
9	Dana Bleiberg	7	5	8	0	20	0	0	5